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The mile-long snow-packed driveway of Vista Verde Ranch in Clark, Colorado led us to a pleasant surprise.
At about 8,000 feet we found shirt-sleeve warmth and a handful of rituals you only get at a dude ranch in the winter.
Days begin with the first ritual – a breakfast timed for the late sunrise. 8:30 am is a good time to wander down to the dining tables and grab a good-sized cup of Kona coffee. Vista Verde ranchers eat big and fresh – oversized fresh fruit (blueberries and blackberries are the size of marbles), and a choice of 3 main dishes cooked to order. We settled on pancake stacks branded with VV, and smothered in warm maple syrup. Thick slices of chewy bacon, and a hefty helping of crunchy home fries on the side complete the meal.
It’s more than just eating. Breakfast is when the day is mapped out for us city slickers. Commitments are made – or not, depending on your mood and energy – for cross- country skiing, horseback riding, a sleigh ride, feeding the horses, and snowshoeing.
Next up is feeding the horses. This second ritual begins with harnessing up the horses up as a team, then linking them to the sleigh as the guests pile on with pitchforks and brooms. Huge black muscular beasts, slightly smaller than the Budweiser Clydesdales, drag the sleigh 400 yards or so to the waiting corral filled with more than 50 horses. They’ve been standing like statues for over 30 minutes, calmly awaiting the feed hay arriving.
The sleigh makes a wide circle around the corral as horses follow, cavort with excitement and snort their pleasure at finally being fed. It takes about 20 minutes to peel, throw, and heave the hay off until the sleigh is empty. We get to feel like a real ranch hand, and it’s guaranteed to get you toasty warm.
Afternoons are time for the outdoor rituals of getting into the snow. Whether it’s cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, or horseback riding, the trails are packed and groomed, ready to take you into solitude.
We choose snowshoeing – how hard can that be? The guy at the ski shack fits us exactly right, and introduces us to the sport with excellent instruction. If you already know what you are doing, grab the shoes and hit the trail.
Either way, it’s a ritual of selecting right-sized gear, putting it on, making sure you’re all adjusted and buckled in, zipped up tight – and then out the door. Convincing words of encouragement and technique pointers from the expert staff carry you out on the trail.
The same folks are awaiting your return, eager to hear about your experience. It’s a body-stretching, mind-clearing afternoon ritual, regardless of the shape you’re in. Two miles of snowshoe crunching is guaranteed to clear your head and your lungs. At least that’s what our huffing and puffing did for us. Just remember to pick those feet up high.
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| Don’t believe the movies: winter happens |
A brief nap back at the cabin, and we wander down to the cavernous post-and-beam lodge to check out the artful furnishings, and settle into deep leather seats for a bit of reading. All we’re really doing is gearing up the fourth ritual of the day – dinner.
It begins at 6 pm with some fine wine selections from the cellar and a variety of cheeses, breads, and crackers. The half-hour gathering is a time for getting acquainted with other guests before heading into the dining area.
There we are greeted with the surprise of the day, cuisine that makes your taste buds want to stand up and cheer. This is food not usually found in a secluded ranch setting – it’s a culinary delight. The presentations, from the appetizers to the dessert, would make the Iron Chef proud. The bison filet was buttery soft, and easily cut with a fork.
Excellent wines and friendly conversations make the 90-minute meal unhurried and relaxed. It is difficult to believe it’s almost 8:30 pm and time for some cowboy singing in the lodge – the fifth and final ritual of the day.
The gang gathers around the super-sized fireplace with a crackling fire going as Dace, Ben and Charlie ham it up big time with a mix of current and old-time western favorites. Frustrated country-western singers all, they mix in comedy with the good-natured catcalls from the guests. Jokes are awful but we laugh anyway. Eyelids grow heavy as the clock moves toward 10.
We light our path with flashlights and head back to the cabins and the awaiting snuggly beds, thick comforters and satiny sheets. We stoke up the wood-burning stove before drifting off to slumber.
Sunrise awakens us for the next day of rituals. We roll out of bed, eager to do it all again – and more.
Getting There – http://tinyurl.com/ya7zll7
Fly In
1. Fly into Denver International Airport (DIA) and then take a connecting flight up to the Steamboat/Hayden, also known as Yampa Valley Regional Airport, (HDN) The Vista Verde manager will arrange to pick you up and bring you to the ranch
2. Fly into DIA and drive to Vista Verde – The drive takes around 3 1/2 hours, and is a beautiful drive on easy roads through the mountains and high plains. This option is recommended as it avoids the potential hassles of an additional flight that could involve delays, maintenance issues and lost bags.
Driving
Head west on I-70 to Silverthorne (or drive east on I-70 if coming from Grand Junction.) Exit and turn right and drive north on Highway 9 to Kremmling.
In Kremmling, turn left onto Highway 40 and proceed over Rabbit Ears Pass to Steamboat Springs. Drive through town to the west side of Steamboat on Highway 40.
Turn right (north) on County Road 129. The intersection is noted by a stoplight and a 7-11 on the northeast corner. Follow CR 129 north about 18 miles.
Go through the town of Clark – don’t blink or you’ll miss it! Just past Clark you will cross the Elk River. Immediately after, turn right onto Seedhouse Road (aka County Road 64).
Follow Seedhouse Road about 5 miles until you see the Vista Verde sign on the left-hand side of the road. Take a left into the driveway.
Follow the driveway about one mile until you come to the main lodge at the ranch. Check in and get ready for some fun.
Dress
Long johns, jeans, shirts, sweaters/sweatshirts, boots, hat, gloves. Ski outfits for cross country if desired. Cameras recommended.
http://www.vistaverde.com/ for reservations or 970.879.3858
Copyright © 2010 Rob Wilson
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