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Within a few hours of arriving in Amman, we are weaving through the tiny, traffic clogged arteries of the old city centre, the Ballad. The fluorescent green light of the city’s many mosques, fleck the surrounding hills as dusk falls. The red, white, black and green of Jordan’s national flag hangs from nearly every white-stoned building in the city, with pictures of a smiling King Abdullah II and his glamorous wife Queen Rania, lit up outside all official buildings. This is a big year for Jordan. 2009 marks 10 years of King Abdullah’s rule over the country, as well as Jordan’s 100th year in existence. This country at the cradle of civilization and blessed with thousands of years of history is a place where art and culture, both new and old, thrive.
Among the ruins of Byzantine Amman which stand alongside the working modern day city, several contemporary art spaces have emerged. One such gallery, is Darat Al Funan, part of the Khalid Shoman Foundation. A 10 minute stroll away from the Ballad, situated atop one of Amman’s seven hills, in Jebel Luwaibdeh, the space was conceived by the family of Jordan’s Arab Bank founder, Khalid Shoman in 1993. The gallery is a recently restored 1920s house, where a free exhibition of both installation and craft art are on display by several up and coming contemporary Jordanian and Palestinian artists. Like many houses in the Jebel Luwaibdeh district, the space had until recently, remained un-restored and derelict. The house was been built on original Byzantine ruins, which are excavated and on display in the gardens. The space is also used by visiting resident artists, and is a world away from the bustle of the city centre. It is only the distant murmur of the city centre that belies the almost utopian setting.
Yet the real gems of the country’s history lie outside Amman. Approximately a one hour’s drive away, lie the immaculately well preserved ruins of the Greco-Roman city Jerash. Situated atop a hill in the middle of rural Jordan’s rocky Mediterranean landscape, in high summer, we count approximately five other groups of four or five French and German tourists – in total. As we glide through the shade of the admission office (entry is 8 Jordanian Dinar, approximately $A16) and head up a hill – in the stark sunlight, the ruins appear eerie, as they stand in their splendid almost completely intact glory. A welcome breeze sweeps through the empty plaza. Cobbled streets complete with chariot wheel markings are lined with shop fronts carved into the surrounding rock, manholes dot the roads, further evidence of Jerash’s status as a working, busy metropolis during Roman rule.
Jerash was a city of The Decapolis, a group of ten cities on the eastern frontier of the Roman Empire in Jordan, Palestine, and Syria. The ten cities were not an official league or political unit, but were grouped together due to similarities in language, culture, location, and political status. The cities were centres of Greek and Roman culture in a region that was otherwise Nabatean, Aramean, and Jewish. Also referred to as Antioch on the Golden River, Jerash is considered to be one of the most important and best preserved Roman cities in the Near East.
Conquered by the Romans in 400 AD, the city continued to blossom until the enormous earthquake of 750 AD which shook much of the Middle East. In its current state, Jerash boasts a 6,000 seater arena, Hadrian’s Arch, two large temples (to Zeus and Artemis), an oval Forum, a long colonnaded street, two theatres (the Large South Theatre and smaller North Theatre), two baths, a scattering of small temples and an almost complete circuit of city walls. Despite the largesse of Jerash’s ruins, it is estimated that nearly 75 per cent of Jordan’s ruins remain unexcavated, an explanation for Jerash’s superb condition. Furthermore, unlike the Forum in Rome or the Acropolis in Greece, there are no queues, nor are there any proximity restrictions. It is not however, recommended to take local guides, as their English skills are often poor and their speeches tend to be rote learnt. Yet in a place like Jerash, bask in its quiet, and let your mind take you back to the ages of old when Jerash was thriving.
Jordan, or trans-Jordan as it is referred to in the bible, meaning the other side of the Jordan River from Palestine/Israel, also boasts several spots of biblical significance. Approximately a half hour’s drive from Amman sits Mt Nebo, the site where Moses looked over the Promised Land according to the final chapter of Deuteronomy. Both Jews and Christians believe that Moses was buried on this mountain by God Himself, yet his final resting place is still unknown. Ruins of a Byzantine church, erected on top of the mountain still stand, while the views over the West Bank and the Dead Sea remain virtually unchanged as to those which Moses saw, all those years ago. Entry to Mount Nebo is 1 JD (Jordanian Dinar) per person.
Closer to the Dead Sea itself, surrounded by the fertile lands of the Jordan Valley where banana plantations thrive, is the site of Jesus’ baptism. Since Jesus’ time, the river has moved about 60 feet. The baptism site is no longer on the river, however evidence of the old shrine still stands, with mosaics under the shelter and the remains of two columns. Nowadays a majestic gold domed Greek orthodox church built in 2003 stands near the modern day baptismal site on the Jordan River. An entry fee of 10 JD includes a small private group tour, sturdy walking shoes are recommended, as the river is approximately a 20 minute walk away from the site where the bus drops you off. In order to avoid crowds, skip weekends, and instead visit the site mid-week, preferably late morning.
Approximately 9 kilometres away from Jesus’ Baptism site, is the Dead Sea. Nowhere else on earth is there a phenomenon like it – a sea of incredible buoyancy with approximately 350 grams of salt per kilogram of water, compared to 40 grams in the world’s oceans. The high salt concentration is due to a rapid rate of evaporation, with no other water outlet. At 400 metres below sea level, the air is highly oxygenated, the water is warm, and the sun’s rays are largely filtered through an extra protective UV shield. The Dead Sea’s curative properties have long been recognised since the days of Herod the Great over 2000 years ago. In the Bible, it is referred to as the Sea of the Araba, the Salt Sea, and the Eastern Sea. While conclusive proof has yet to be found, many believe the Dead Sea’s origins lie in the biblical story of Sodom and Gomorrah, destroyed by God because of their wickedness.
The Dead Sea mud, infused with minerals, is said to not only ease rheumatic pain and joint complaints, but to stimulate blood flow, resulting in a markedly younger looking complexion. Generally olive green in appearance, with a clay-like smooth texture, the mud should be applied all over the body – head to toe – hair included. A dip in the sea itself is really a once in a lifetime experience – bask in the sea’s amazing buoyancy, and marvel at the view of the ancient chalky ranges of Palestine at the sea’s edge.
Rather than its richer, oil-bearing Arab neighbours, this year explore Amman and its many surrounding ancient sites for a unique cultural and spiritual indulgence. Meanwhile, beat the queues of other world famous ruins, and let your mind take you back to a time before Western civilization had even been thought of.
FACTBOX:
Dead Sea:
Dead Sea Spa Resort: A good option for day trippers to the region, is the Dead Sea Spa Resort, just after the Marriott and Movenpick resorts. Entry is 12 JD per person for the day, which includes access to the Dead Sea and use of the resort’s pool. Mud is 3 JD per person for an application – however it is possible to find your own mud on the beach, as there is plenty of it at this resort.
Darat Al Funan Gallery: For more information visit www.daratalfunan.org
Also visit www.kinghussein.gov.jo for the latest news on upcoming touristic events in and around Amman.
Copyright © 2009 Jacqueline Beach
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