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Recently, I had the opportunity to visit a friend’s parents who lived in Tokyo. While I had a free place to stay, I had little else – no tour guide, no mode of transportation, no sense at all of Tokyo and its culture beyond the guidebooks and the depiction in movies a’la “Lost In Translation.”
My hosts were gracious and accommodating, providing useful information beyond my guidebook and suggesting things to do and see. On a few occasions we dined together in the evenings. Both teachers at the American School in Japan, they had to work mid-week. So I was on my own to discover the city and outlying areas.
Based on the maps I’d reviewed on the 11-hour flight from Los Angeles, I felt well-versed on many areas of the city and comfortable choosing a path for my week-long trip.
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| Shibuya intersection |
Once there I realized – despite my preparation – navigating the transportation system, communicating with locals and understanding the layout of Tokyo was challenging. Particularly since my guidebook had lots of useful tidbits on the culture but left much to be desired in terms of practical details – especially when tackling Tokyo as a single woman.
When traveling anywhere, it’s important to attempt to speak the language, show common courtesy and respect the country’s culture. When traveling alone, there are certain must-haves in order to navigate the city. With a little preparation and by learning from others’ mistakes (e.g. mine), yours can be a successful, stress-free jaunt to the capital of Japan.
In addition to a comprehensive, detailed map of Tokyo (I recommend carrying it with you at all times), make sure you have an up-to-date map of all the train lines and their schedules. You’ll need a map of the subway system, and one of the Yamanote loop. Perhaps most importantly, you need a map of the Yamanote connecting lines that run throughout the city – more or less, the backbone of the Tokyo train system (and my primary mode of transportation while there).
For supplemental trips outside of Tokyo, make sure you have a detailed map of the streets and transportation lines (if any) for the area once you arrive. Some areas, like Kamakura and Tokeiji near Sagami Bay are remote, therefore less details exist for these areas and the greater the likelihood that English will not be spoken. One thing I found particularly helpful were the Japanese characters to accompany the descriptions – especially for some of the more obscure areas. As you get further outside of Tokyo, the signs all switch from Romanji, the use of the Latin alphabet to write the Japanese language, to traditional character spelling. Therefore, having guidebook or map with both versions really comes in handy.
When visiting a place of worship or holy temple, service may be in progress. Are you being disrespectful if you join, watch, speak? Visitors are generally accepted to pray and are expected to show respect at temples and shrines. This includes offering donations, and washing hands in the fountains before entering. Note that some temples and shrines charge high entrance rates, while other – equally impressive temples – are next-to-nothing or free. Choose wisely, based on your budget.
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| the Great Daibutsu of Kamakura |
Beyond etiquette in the temples, the Japanese consider eating in places other than restaurants or designated areas rude. This goes double for trains, as I found out the hard way (when my crunching into an apple was met with incredulous, disgusted stares from the few Japanese passengers sharing this particular train bound for Ueno). The rule here is simple: don’t do it.
When in Tokyo, one must shop. For funky, eclectic boutiques, restaurants, and people-watching: head to Harajuku. You’ll get to experience the impeccably made-up Harajuku kids and overzealous street performers. You’ll also have a chance to catch up on the latest Japanese fashion trends by strolling shop-to-shop. If cell phones and electronics are what you crave, head to Shibuya where shops line the crowded streets and compete for attention with loud ringtones, lights and digital advances years ahead of the U.S. Shibuya is also considered the trendiest of shopping districts in Tokyo, arguably the world. Finally, plan to visit the Asakusa outdoor markets to shop for local wares and take time out to marvel at the pagodas and shrines.
While many guidebooks highlight Roppongi as the hip place to be in Tokyo; another area of the city, Kichijoji often goes overlooked. The neighborhood has an energy all its own – with unique stores, delicious cuisine, coffee shops, authentic karaoke bars and even ice cream parlors (open late)!
Japan historically has had a low crime rate, but this shouldn’t give you a false sense of security – especially as a woman traveling alone. As a general rule, be careful, particularly if you find yourself in a crowded street market where pickpockets skulk along, seeking their next unsuspecting victim. Also, plan to be in a safe place before the sun goes down. This happened to me a couple of times – either I caught the wrong train going the wrong direction, or I simply lost track of time or miscalculated how long it would take to get home. Keep your wits about you. Chances are you’ll run into another English-speaking traveler or helpful local who can assist. The train stations all have knowledgeable employees and information booths, as well.
Narita International Airport is about 45 miles away from Tokyo Central. When taking the JR Narita Express (N’EX) high-speed train, buy tickets at least a day in advance (seats are by reservation only) and plan to arrive about an hour earlier than you would like to arrive at the airport – not before your flight departs. N’EX delays are common – including the train I was on. Luckily, I had purchased a ticket to arrive much earlier than I needed to be at the airport. I arrived just in time for my flight home.
The best advice for obtaining yen: save yourself the hassle, exchange your money before you leave your country of origin. Getting cash once you’re there can be difficult. The CitiBank across the street from Shinjuku station, as well as very few, select other ATMs throughout the city take international bank cards – but it’s hit or miss.
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| Picasso in the air |
If you notice a crimson glow burning brightly above a hotel, you may want to steer clear. Or, you may not. Whatever your preference, Love Hotels – most commonly found in Shibuya, Ikebukuro and Shinjuku – are usually available in two rates: a “stay” rate and “rest” rate – usually up to only two hours. The stay rate permits you to “sleep” overnight. The other allows you to enter, but once you leave – consider yourself checked out. There’s no re-entry, unless you pay again.
Ladies, the rumors are true. Many Japanese-style public toilets are little more than a hole in the floor. It’s important to know how to use them. The best advice I can give is limber up, get low and wear skirts. It’ll make your life much easier should you encounter one of these challenging in-floor receptacles. (Honestly, some of the greatest stress of my trip occurred when walking into a restroom that turned out to be a non-Western one.)
To add insult to injury, toilet paper is often not provided in public washrooms, so you should always carry a small package of tissues with you. Consider yourself lucky if you find a restroom with paper towels and dryers. On the flipside, ultra-modern toilets are popular in many Japanese households. Features may include heated seats, self-flushing capability and a built-in bidet function. A stark, seemingly cruel contrast to the alternative.
If you do only one-day trip while in Tokyo, select the spectacular sensory experience of Hakone. On a clear day, you’ll catch breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji and will have the opportunity to see some of the most unique geologic wonders in all of Japan – not to mention, experience many, many modes of transportation in a very short period of time.
Seeing all that the Hakone region has to offer is easy, if you have directions and a full day to dedicate to the journey. Take the Odakyu and Odawara trains out of Tokyo and catch the Hakone-Yumoto Tozan line, the world’s steepest train that executes a series of jarring forward and reverse switchbacks to reach the top. Get off at the Chokuko no Mori station, the second stop on the line, and allow a couple of hours for a visit to the Hakone Open Air Museum. The vast outdoor exhibit spans 12 and a half miles and houses 20th century sculptures on lawns and in the surrounding woods, accessible by winding foot paths. Paintings by 20th century European and Japanese artists including Renoir, Chagall and Picasso are also on display indoors.
Walk 10 minutes to the Hakone Tozan Cable car, the funicular railway that continues its climb up the mountainside to Souzan Station. Then, hop aboard the Hakone Ropeway, Japan’s longest cable car route (nearly three miles) – a gondola that precariously slides more than 200 feet above the sulfur pits of Owakudani (“big boiling valley” or “Hell Valley”). At the top, get out and check out the hot springs. Eat the region’s specialty food: a black egg. Boiled by pools of volcanic water that have seeped through crevices in the volcano, locals believe that each egg eaten adds seven years to your life.
It is estimated that 3,000 years ago a vaporous eruption of Mt. Kamiyama resulted in the birth of Owakudani Valley and Lake Ashi. It never freezes due to the volcanic activity still going on beneath, which also accounts for Owakudani’s sulfur production.
Continue on the Ropeway down to Togendai Station. From here, you can walk a short distance to the banks of Lake Ashi, where you can catch one of the garishly themed boats to Hakone-Machi and Moto-Hakone.
Once across in Hakone-Machi, you’ll be rewarded with a gorgeous view of the lake with Mt. Fuji presiding powerfully in the distance (provided the mountain’s not shrouded in clouds, which it often is). Stop at the gift shop in Hakone-Machi for a quick bite of Soba noodles and, for dessert, sample candy and custard made of every type of Japanese “bean jelly” imaginable.
Whatever your preference, Tokyo and its surrounding areas are meant to be discovered. Plan ahead, but don’t overplan. Leave time to appreciate the temples, gardens and caves of Kamakura; sample sushi from a rotating conveyor belt or view the city’s bridges on a Sumida River cruise. Schedule one or more onsen (natural hot spring) baths, take in a Sumo match or play a game of Pachinko. Try, I challenge you, to figure out just where all 3 million people are going when they walk across Shibuya Crossing each day.
You’ll never want for stimulation in the city that’s steeped in culture, tradition, trend-setting and excitement.
Copyright © 2006 Susan Benton
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